Dom Dom Dom

Sometimes I make bad jokes in English that are even worse in German. In Köln, the "Dom" as it is called is the architechtural centerpiece of the city. Whenever I see it, I like to sing, "Dom, dom dom dom, DOMMMM". No one has EVER laughed. Not once. Still, I persist. So the Dom stands right outside the Hauptbanhof, and was essentially the only major strcuture to evade total desecration during the bombings in World War II. In all honesty, being inside it gives me the same feeling as the end of Stephen King's "Carrie" does, when the mom calls her breasts "dirty pillows" (Anyone? Anyone?). Kind of creepy, but it is really stunning as part of the sky line, and there are all sorts of objects fashioned in its shape, like salt and pepper shakers, hats, keychains, lampshades. People really dig the Dom, so it wouldn't be fair not to show you. Here's a shitty picture I took from Deutz (but you can see what I mean about striking):




I tried in vain to find an epic photo I could put here to compare, but people are really protective of their pictures of it for some reason, so you'll have to google Kölner Dom yourself if you're aching to see more. Don't forget the ö.

Backtrack to Backpack

This is legitimately what I looked like when I got off the night-train, which incidentally I was pronouncing to everyone in German as the NaKt-train instead of NaCHt-train. This means I told about 100 people I came to Köln in the "naked-train". Awesome.

German Verb of the Day: Vermissen

 

: (v) to miss

I have had the great fortune these past week of having incredible friends that let me stay with them, successfully evading "Match Girl" status on all accounts. Sometimes, the warm hospitality of others is so moving it crashes right over to homesickness. A strange paradox, but one that I find is true again and again. On Monday, I went to the Arcade Fire concert (sidenote: mindblowing!) with Katrin and her father. He's a very cool dad I must say, and in the car we were talking about music ... or rather I was spewing stings of random words at him in German and he was kindly interpreting and responding in excellent English. It was snowing quite hard on the Autobahn, so we drove slowly and gently along. I brought up Paul Simon, which I sort of regretted because it made my heart hurt a little thinking of all the days at home on familiar roads, singing. Katrin's father I sang did a funny little rendition of this one while waiting at a traffic light. He was pitch perfect:

Last night, I cooked Mexican for Katrin & Marcus as a thank you for their generosity, and while doing the dishes, I was listening to KEXP. This is undoubtedly one of my favorite radio stations at home, and the one I know Andy listens to every day at work, so I like to listen sometimes and think of Brooklyn. I found an acoustic set by Colin Meloy of The Decemberists, and it included a heart-wrenching version of this one. I never paid much attention to the lyrics, but with the winter upon us, snow falling and all my stuff shoved into one bag, it hit home. I am off into the streets today with a charged camera battery, and a fresh blanket of white to document, so new pictures are soon on the way...

German Word of the Day: "Schnee"

 "Schnee" : (n) snow

I know I have been away for quite some time. I have a lot to tell, and I am picking up my camera today, so I can proceed in updating about all the curiosities the past two weeks have brought. Snow has come to Cologne, much more and much earlier than they are accustomed to. This amuses me, to see people scrambling about over 4 cms, coming from Boston. But my, is it ever beautiful. Some tunes of inspriation in the meantime. I listened to this on the train watching the snow yesterday  ...

Things I saw on a Saturday

Yesterday, I spent a few hours wandering the city before meeting my friend Jesper at his exquisite vintage stop on Krystalgade. I didn't take any pictures at the shop because I was so distracted by the incredible clothes, but you can get a taste of Time's Up Vintage here. 

Here are some other things I saw on my stroll:

German word of the day: "Die Koffer"

Die Koffer: the suitcases

 ... and how I regret bringing more than one. I am packing up to head for the night train to Cologne, and I am not thrilled at the likely prospect of being that "American asshole" blocking the aisles as I sweatily and awkwardly make my way through the train compartment desperately searching for a place to put my bags that is reasonably close to my assigned seat. I'm sure there will be a trail of minimalist Danish fresh-faced individuals behind me whispering about my struggle. The very thought of this gives me bubble-guts. The anxiety this vision gives me is enough that I almost want to give some of my belongings away just to empty one suitcase. 

       I have to keep repeating to myself that approximately 15 hours of discomfort and nervousness might actually be equivalent to exercise, so it must be healthy. Experiences like this always conjure embarrassing memories of being a pre-teen and doing stupid things like tucking my skirt into my tights when leaving the bathroom. For me, being awkward on foreign transportation is the adult equivalent of accidentally farting during a test in junior high. Just writing about it is making me sick. Wish me luck!

A Lamb named Peter

I should have taken pictures of this dinner. 

Today was a lovely day ... saw the sun for the first time since arriving. I went to a Danish "fitness center" and discovered that all is about the same except the occasional Danish MTV video featuring graphically nude men brushing their hair, and an herbal sauna where both the men and the women let it all hang out. Of course, I kept mine intact. One of my hosts' friends came from Bornholm with a lamb leg he acquired from a vet. The lamb wasn't sick. This vet has a farm. Regardless, this lamb was named Peter, and he had a good life according to the bringer of the lamb, so we roasted it in garlic and potatoes and pumpkin and rosemary. I made my interpretation of Autumn Bisque that Liisa introduced me to, and we had sides of lovely sesame cole slaw, roasted vegetables, and a pepper and feta pasta salad. The kids liked it, we liked it, and the terrible rainstorm outside eluded us. Then we played this exquisite video game just released in Denmark called "LIMBO".  It was me, 2 elegant gentlemen, and a 9 year-old girl. It was epic ... I usually find video games infinitely frustrating, but this is one is so beautiful and brain-bending. You can see a full preview for it here: http://www.limbogame.org

          screen shot from Limbo